Aristophanes in
Clouds [sc. uses the phrase].[1]
kestreai are not the same as
kestreis ["mullets"]; instead, some think that murries [
myrainai] are called
kestrai; others say it is not those, but a different kind of fish. Nowadays though we know as
kestreis the
kephaloi.[2]
The slice of large mullets referred to, is namely [a slice] of prized and magnificent fish.[3] The [word] "slice" is also said of flat cakes, never of wheat.[4]
And [there is] a proverb: "the mullet fasts";[5] in reference to those who act honestly, and for that very reason end up worse off. And who walk away with nothing more than justice; for the fish too is clean.[6]
*kestra=n tema/xh: *)aristofa/nhs *nefe/lais. ou)x oi( au)toi\ toi=s kestreu=sin i)xqu/sin ai( kestre/ai: a)ll' oi( me\n ta\s murai/nas ke/stras a)ciou=si kalei=n: oi( de\ ou) tau/tas, a)lla/ ti dia/foron a)/llo ge/nos i)xqu/wn. nu=n me/ntoi kestrei=s kalou=men tou\s kefa/lous. to\ lego/menon tema/xion mega/lwn kestrw=n, toute/sti timi/wn kai\ lamprw=n i)xqu/wn. to\ de\ te/maxos kai\ e)pi\ plakou=ntos, e)pi\ purw=n ou)ke/ti. kai\ paroimi/a: *kestreu\s nhsteu/ei: e)pi\ tw=n dikaiopragou/ntwn, h(=tton de\ ferome/nwn dia\ tou=to au)to/. kai\ mhde\n ple/on a)po\ th=s dikaiosu/nhs a)poferome/nwn: e)pei\ kai\ o( i)xqu\s kaqaro/s e)sti.
[1]
Aristophanes,
Clouds 339. The phrase includes the Doric genitive plural of
ke/stra. The word
ke/stra is also glossed in
Hesychius kappa2382: "a defensive weapon; a hammer; and a kind of fish".
Photius,
Lexicon kappa626 Theodoridis glosses it as
mu/raina, "murry" (accusatives). The full headword phrase is also cited (in Attic) in
tau 295.
[2] From the
scholia vetera to the passage cited. The scholiast attempts a distinction between
ke/stra [~
kestre/a] and
kestreu/s. (On
kestre/a see
kappa 1430.) Both fish names derive from the literal meaning of
ke/stra, "hammer". In LSJ,
ke/stra is a
sfu/raina (also a "hammer" fish, as identified by
Athenaeus,
Deipnosphists 7.323A-C = 7.122 Kaibel), and a
sfu/raina is either a "bicuda" ("Sphyraena spet") -- or a
ke/stra. Dalby 2003 s.v. barracuda identifies the
ke/stra and the
sfu/raina with the
Sphyraena sphyraena, the European barracuda, called
spet in French. The
kestreu/s on the other hand is defined in LSJ as a mullet, and the
ke/falos a kind of mullet. So LSJ is non-committal on the identity of the
ke/stra and the
kestreu/s. On the
kestreu/s see also
kappa 1432; on the identification with the
ke/falos see
kappa 1431.
[3] This gloss appears unique to the Suda.
[4] Mangling of a prescription in
Phrynichus,
Praeparatio Sophistica 12: "one will not correctly say
te/maxos "slice" of meat, cake, or bread, but
to/mos;
te/maxos is said only of fish". By the time the phrase ends up in the
scholia vetera on
Aristophanes,
Clouds 339b, it is rearranged: "
te/maxos is said of fish and cake; never of meat". Though the Suda takes up the scholiast's prescription, "meat" is here substituted with "wheat", and in
tau 295 with "peas".
[5] The "fasting mullet" (
nh=stis kestreu/s), a commonplace of comedy (
kappa 1432), is expanded out to the sentence given, "the mullet fasts", in
Athenaeus,
Deipnosophists 7.307C [7.79 Kaibel]; [
Plutarch],
Proverbs used by the Alexandrians 1.8;
Pausanias,
*)attikw=n o)noma/twn sunagwgh/ kappa29;
Libanius,
Letters 332.2; Gregorius,
Proverbs 2.90;
Apostolius 9.76. In LSJ s.v.
kestreu/s, it is glossed as "of those too honest to make gains". The proverb is interpreted differently in
Diogenianus 5.53 (Mazarin codex): "concerning the greedy, who pretend to fast; for the animal is insatiable" (on the gluttony of mullets, discussed in
Aristotle, see
kappa 1432). The two interpretations are merged together in
Diogenianus 3.1 (Vienna codex) and
Zenobius 4.52; in
Diogenianus' wording: "concerning the very greedy. [
Zenobius adds: For the mullet is so insatiable, that as a result those who gape and drink were called mullets, being greedy.] But it is also said concerning those who act honestly, but walk away with nothing more than justice. For while other fish eat each other, the mullet alone abstains from eating flesh, and feeds on mud". The Suda's wording combines
Pausanias for the first sentence, and
Diogenianus for the second. The proverbial saying is also glossed in
Photius,
Lexicon kappa624 Theodoridis (s.v.
kestrei=s), whose wording overlaps with the Suda's.
[6] Namely "not carnivorous", as
Diogenianus,
Zenobius, and
Athenaeus already indicate; see
kappa 1432.
Dalby, A. 2003. Food in the Ancient World from A to Z. Routledge
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